Sat May 25, 2019 06:26 PM
Morning Modelbuch (5/26/2019)
This shirt in a portrait of the actor Nathan Field, dated 1615 by an unknown painter is gorgeous. Held in the Dulwich Picture Gallery.
There are some patterns in Matteo Pagano _Spechio di pensieri delle belle et Virtudiose donne_ that have a squiggly line across some of the parts of the pattern and they seem to match up with the black embroidery of the portrait. I’m not sure if the patterns were intended for this type of embroidery, or if this is just an adaptation of a pattern. The black cloverleaf sort of design in the edging of the embroidery is something I’d expect to have been done in a freestanding lace. I’m not sure if the painting is representing an insert, a lace applied to the shirt, or an embroidery over the top. It is certainly a lovely layering of designs and great use of contrast.
Pagano published in 1546 https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/354982
https://www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk/explore-the-collection/351-400/called-nathan-field/